Kumeu River

Good wine holds memories. A bottle opened in celebration of an occasion, by someone surrounded by the people they love most will carry the feeling of that moment, forever. One need only to reach for it again years later and find themselves back in that same room.

It is this idea that drew VEIL to Kumeu River, as well as the reputation of this globally-lauded vineyard which spans an impressive eighty years. Over eight decades and three generations the Brajkovichs (originally from Croatia) have been working the same land north-west of Auckland and building something that now draws comparison with the great estates of Burgundy. And beyond that impressive legacy, it is the family’s philosophy, underpinning everything they do, that showed us the deep authenticity at play in Kumeu River’s approach (something that mirrors our own values at VEIL) . The care with which this wine is made, applied consistently over many many years, has become something you can taste in its every single one of its bottles, and it imbues the wine with a certain, intangible quality that is hard to describe.

The Kumeu River Village range is where that philosophy meets the everyday. Made from the same family-owned vineyards, with the same winemaking values as every award-winning and higher end wine that leaves the estate, the Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir are designed to be shared widely and enjoyed with or without ceremony. They are, the family will tell you, always in the fridge at home.

For a wedding, there is no better brief. Pour something generous, something real, something with eighty years of a family legacy behind it — and let it do what wine has always done at the moments that count.

Here, we sat down with the Kumeu River team about the Village range — how it is made, what it is for and what the family hopes you take from it. Alongside it, we offer a look into an intimate lunch VEIL hosted with some of our close community at the Kumeu River estate, where we celebrated and enjoyed the Village Range alongside platters of delectable food by The Wine Room’s talented Head Chef, XX.

We describe Kumeu Village as the everyday, approachable wine you should always have in the fridge. They’re made to be light, crisp, and delicious, and they’re versatile for many occasions, or just when a glass of wine is needed. Kumeu Village plays an important role in keeping the integrity of our Kumeu River Estate and Single Vineyard wines at such a high level.

Kumeu River has its single-vineyard wines, which should showcase a sense of place. Vineyards that deserve their own designation, The Kumeu River Estate wines are a blend from vineyards of very high quality. Kumeu Village is the benefactor of any fruit we don’t require in these wines. We still apply the same winemaking values to the Village wines, however they tend to be a little lighter and drinkable on release, whereas the other wines need a few years to hit their stride.

All the grapes for the Kumeu Village collection come from our family-owned or managed sites in Kumeu or our Rays Road vineyard in Hawkes Bay. In truly great years, which we have had quite a few in the last decade, the fruit going into our Village wines is of incredible quality.

The first job of Chardonnay or Pinot Gris is to be refreshing; as a family, we always have the Village wines in the fridge at home. We always look for the fruit to speak for itself; as such, there is little or no oak used in the Village wines; they are fresh, ready and easy to drink. Perfect for a wedding, which they have featured at a few of ours.

We make all our wines at our family-run winery in Kumeu. Even the fruit from our Hawkes Bay vineyards is trucked up the moment it is picked and processed the same day. We usually work well into the night over vintage. Once the fruit is processed, all the wines, regardless of their end price point, are crafted the same way.

We’ve been growing and making wines in Kumeu for well over 80 years, our wine prices have increased over time, and we’re routinely getting feedback. Even at the top end, our wines are very generously priced. At $25 on the shelf, our Kumeu Village wines offer great enjoyment whether you're an everyday drinker or a Master of Wine.

Great friends and good conversation! They usually help with the latter. We love crayfish as a family, so naturally, Chardonnay and Crayfish would be a recommendation. The Pinot Gris has a hint of quince and spice, and is a great winter white option that can handle a bit of spice. Our Kumeu Village Pinot Noir, like most delicate reds, loves a red-meat or rich-protein match.

Celebrations are where our Kumeu Village comes to the party; they are excellent wines you can host large events with, knowing everyone is going to enjoy what they are drinking, and you’re not going to break the bank with the wine budget. There’s always a time and place for extra special bottles, weddings, reunions, and large family gatherings, which is most weekends for us.

When you’re entertaining a large group, you simply can't cater to every taste; however, with a great Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, you’re getting pretty close. The bride and groom are the main event; the food and wine have to be good, but don't need to be the star of the show. Solid choices that everyone feels comfortable with create a great feeling in the room. If Kumeu Village can help create that, we’ve done our job.

Simplicity and variety. Generally, you won't have the Ritz-Carlton wine service team, so keep your wine list simple yet effective for both guests and your staff on the night. Variety, you want enough to foster choices and not enough to overwhelm. Bookended with Sparkling Wine (possibly Kumeu River Crémant!) and perhaps a bolder, richer red, the Kumeu Village wines do nicely fill out a simple and delicious list. The bottles with the hand-drawn calligraphy look lovely on any table, too.

Wine is the perfect postcard or time capsule to transport you back to a moment in time. With that in mind, Kumeu Village wines are so readily available at many local retailers around the country, you can always reach out for one of those good memories without having to pack out your cellar with cases and cases of something rare and wonderful.

We’d like to think that every year our viticulture and winemaking get better and better; we only get to do our job once a year, so it takes a while to really get it right. As all our vineyards come of age and our winemaking is honed, the largest beneficiary of all this effort is the Kumeu Village wines, whose prices haven’t moved much over time; however, the wines are better and better every year.

We’re a family business, run by four siblings. Michael, Marijana, Milan and Paul. Mum, Melba is very much a part of the Kumeu River story as is founder and husband, Mate. Now at 89, she still lives at the winery, entertaining the vineyard team and cellar door visitors with stories of her time in the industry. As a family, it makes us really proud to see our wines received with integrity and authenticity, no matter the price point. They showcase value and provide access to world-class Chardonnay, in particular, at a fraction of the price of our French counterparts.